Papo’s Bagels - Dalston
At a glance: No gimmick, authentic NY-styled bagels.
Visit for: To date, the best bagel in London.
Ordered: 1 x Cold Cuts on Everything, 1 x The Classic on Poppy Seed (£16)
Location: Dalston (Strikes again). 73-75 Shacklewell Ln, London E8 2EB.
Having recently returned from New York, where more than one over-hyped and frankly bang-average bagel was consumed, I’m that much more appreciative of the culinary gem that is Papo’s Bagels. There is a certain degree of global fraternity between bagel shops & their owners. I might not know you, but I’m viscerally aware of what keeps you up at night. Namely refrigeration issues, quantity Russian roulette and the general lack of work-life balance you sign up for when committing your life to the craft. I’ve got nothin’ but respect.
Fortunately, there isn’t much to not like about Papo’s bagels. They were some of the first to be banging out genuinely good, considered, NY-styled bagels in London. Say what you will (respectfully) about your patronage on Brick Lane, but some small part of you must know that’s not as good as it gets. Everyone loves a bread roll but not all bagels are created equal. Papo’s delivers up freshly boiled and baked bagels on Wednesdays through Sundays and are remarkably consistent with their offering. The bagel sandwiches cover all of the bases. Cold cuts, classic Lox and a Tuna Melt (among others). Bagels are also available as singles at a steal for £1.50, considering the labour going into these little fuckers.
A note on the customer experience. The older I’ve gotten the more jaded I’m made by “otherwise” service. While the product is phenomenal, the FOH interactions on that particular day were a little off. We all have bad days, and I’m telling myself “Shut up, boomer” while typing this. That being said, a little cheer and interest on the till goes a long way. It is what it is.
Regardless, the Cold Cut sandwich is the perfect marriage of meaty deli cold cuts, swiss cheese, pickled chilli, rocket, mayo and a house vinaigrette. Salty, and crunchy with the perfect hit of heat. With bagels as fresh as this it’s pretty hard to miss. The Classic (Lox to the rest of you) is a staple done justice. Smoked salmon, schmear, onion & capers. These bagels are nothing short of phenomenal, and are well worth the travel time, should you have the misfortune of not residing within the E8 postcode.
Best bagels in the business right now. Make the journey.