Flat White - Soho
At a glance: Flat White pioneers, stalwarts of the UK coffee scene.
Visit for: A transcendent flattie and slice of toasted banana bread.
Ordered: Flat White, Banana Bread & Rooibos Tea (£11.65)
Location: 17 Berwick Street, Soho. Follow the scent of fresh falafels/street food.
This one’s a little trickier to write. I feel protective of the safe haven that is Flat White, despite this institution being anything but a secret. Work in Soho long enough and you’ll soon realise that consistently *good* coffee spots devoid of tourists and fluff are far and few between. I want to celebrate one of my favourite coffees in the city - so if you’re new here please don't fuck this up for me. Respect its sanctity.
With doors opening in 2005, Flat White is widely regarded as having introduced - well- the Flat White to London. Given the state of the world, 19 years in business is nothing short of remarkable. I can't attest to having been an OG day one (cue a “when everyone else was enjoying Flat White but you were messing around in primary school” meme). My introduction happened further down the line. Circa 2016, junior so and so at redacted production house. Tired, hungry, disillusioned.
Nestled within the chaos of Berwick Street Market, the real joy of this spot is its unassuming nature. Simple black facade, paired back interior and DIY genius. Anywhere that uses portafilters/handles as a door-closing solution has my undying loyalty. The paint chipping on the stairway down to the loo warms my Grinch heart. This is all part of the charm. You’re here to drink coffee, incredible coffee. That and escape whatever chaos might be erupting outside on the streets of Soho. This no-frills approach to hospitality reminds me of better times when not everything had to be shop fitted to the nines, but you know the barista will remember your name and ask after your holidays back home.
I can’t profess to know much about coffee, other than to denote when one is particularly good. Smooth, chocolatey and the kick up the arse needed to navigate my way back down Oxford Street. Coffee aside, the housemade banana bread is motivation enough to plan a visit. An unassuming pastries counter delivers one of the top 5 banana bread experiences of my life (a list for another day). Slathered with butter, caramelised to perfection - better than your mum’s.
The staff are generally laid back and awesome, and the music is a mix of pleasing 2000s alternative bangers. The ones we all secretly have on rotation. The clientele here today look like the kind of people I’d like to be in a book club with. Relaxed, diverse, engaged. A quip on the receipt stating “No wifi, talk with a stranger” keeps laptop jockeys and slow sippers at bay.
One of my favourite stops in the city. Quality coffee, quality bakes, quality service. No fuss. Next time you’re in the city and overstimulated, pull in.