Fortitude Bakehouse - Bloomsbury
At a glance: TikTok fodder backed up by incredible products. One of the most consistent bakeries in the city.
Visit for: Anything in the display. I’ve yet to hit a miss. Excellent seasonal sweet & savory hand pies.Stunt-worthy beignets.
Ordered: 1 x Spinach & Feta Pie, 1 x Apple & Custard Hand Pie, 1 x Vegan Chocolate Cake, 1 x Flat White (£16.10)
Location: 35 Colonnade, Bloomsbury, London WC1N. Quite literally around the corner from Russel Square Station.
Fortitude Bakehouse is one of the more recent victims of the TikTok boom despite having opened its doors in 2018. While this is great for business, it can be a major turn-off for the rest of us just trying to get a fix before work, an appointment, the next train, etc. Famed for its stunt-worthy cream-filled beignets, these are only available from 11 am and in limited supply. I was dubious but have subsequently been converted to the cult. Hot tip. There are multiple delicious items on the menu. Venture forth before 9 am and have your pick of the litter.
You’re only really departing at Russel Square station if it was your intended destination, no one is here accidentally and everyone is moving on to their final destination with intent. It’s 8 am on a Monday and delightfully quiet. Fortitude Bakehouse is tucked away in a cobblestoned alley just behind the station. You won’t miss it. A deep blue doorway gatekeeping the pastry-enclosed wonder within. A few rows of benches and eager pigeons await you outside. Despite the alleyway being a delightful respite from the Piccadilly Line morning commute, Fortitude has an electric energy, even at this hour. The staff are proactive and engaged, watching out for whoever is next on the line. Funny, efficient, and speedy. The holy trinity of service. Fresh-baked excellence lies before you at the extended display/service bar. Take your time. You’re not going to want to miss anything. I go for the Spinich & Feta Pie, Apple and Custard Hand Pie, and vegan chocolate cake slice (more on this later). I’m half-shamed into my 4th coffee of the day by the barista and I’m not even mad about it.
You’ll receive your goods wrapped neatly in brown parchment paper. The perfect red herring, knowing that whatever it is you’re about to unwrap is likely one of the best pastries you’ll encounter that week. The pigeons and I start with the lightest, flakiest Spinach and Feta Pie, hunched over one of the available benches outside. This is filo pastry perfection - the filling is salty, rich, and satisfying in every way possible. I think the hand pie is being overlooked in London. Fortitude has taken this humble creation and run with it. The Apple & Custard hand pie has a creme brulee-like texture, with dark caramelized sugar crackling as you bite into it. An exceptional balance of light custard and sharp apple. The wild card vegan chocolate cake blew me away. Rich, moist (ew) and satiating. This isn’t the half-assed attempt one has become accustomed to associating with vegan baked goods.
Don’t be put off by the Insta heat on this one, it’s well worth the trip and potential queue time. The early bird may not catch the beignet, but it will salvage your sanity and score a delicious baked good of equal delight.